Home

Bronte's economy

Green Bronte pistachio

Bronte's  economy,  together

You are in: Home–› The Economy–› The Pistachio–› The picking


Bronte's Pistachio

The Picking

Raccolta del pistacchio di BronteThe brontese pistachio picking is two-yearly and is carried out in the uneven years, towards the end of August and the start of September.

Each plant produces from 5 to 15 Kg of tignosella (so is called the fruit when peeled and dried) with maximum peaks of 20-30 Kg..

On the even years, when there is no picking, is carried out what is called the green pruning: the flowering buds in the extensions of the previous year are removed by hand.
The green pruning is a tradition  that goes back to earliest times - probably to the Arab domination period - and that is handed down from father to son without a continuity solution.

Testimony of a culture, the peasant one, according to which, thanks to the "rest", the plant can absorb from the rocky land  the necessary substances to produce a fruit richer of fragrance and full of unmistakable flavors.

Every two years (the uneven ones) over 30 thousand quintals of pistachios are picked in Bronte.

That represents just the 1% of the world production, but, for our town, represents the most significant economic element both for the surface interested in such cultivation and for the relevant value of the production.

Also because of the impervious and steep environment in which the plant is grown, the danger of dispersion of the fruit among the "sciarelle" of the "lochi", the harvest involves a considerable use of expensive labor.

It is still done entirely manually directly from the trees by dropping the fruit into a container carried on the shoulder or shaking the branches to collect the fruit on sheets spread at the foot of the plants or, in some cases, even with the curious but practical use of an upside-down umbrella hanging from the branch.

A quick game of patient hands stained by the abundant resin of the branches, a long-awaited celebration and effort, in which the whole family participates with different tasks, including women, grandparents and children.

After the picking  the fruit, by mechanical rubbing, is"sgrollato" (separated fromits leathery  cover) and dried  for 3-4 days in the sun, in large open spaces prepared in front of the farm-houses.

This way is obtained the pistachio in its shell, locally called Tignosella, kept by the producers, before selling it, in dark and dry rooms. After two years of work and of spending a lot of money the producer's toil is finished.

But because of a too low  price or of a scarce crop, often it is not possible to recover the relevant cost of financial and physic energies. The last year (2000), for instance, for the adverse climatic conditions, 60% of the crop was lost.

The shelling of the pistachio seed  is done mechanically by the cooperatives or the local merchants to whom the product is sold or conferred.

Up to some past decades  the shelling was still done manually in the producers houses: with infinite patience and a rudimentary technique consisting in a block of lava rock, emptied inside, ("u sciffu"), onthe edges of which  the pistachios, one by one, were hit and broken with hammers or stones.

"Sciffu" in pietra lavicaToday the biennale work of the producers stops with the  "tignosella" (the unshelled pi­stachio): for the shelling and peeling the fruit is brought to centers of  collections or sold directly to exporters. Such processing is required by importing countries and confectionery and canning indu­stries. In fact, just because of its bright green color (a true trademark), the brontese  pistachio is commercialized nearly exclusively as "peeled".

The peeling, removal  of the thin purple-reddish pellicle is done by a highly technologic process  which exposes the fruit to a brief jet of high pressure steam that causes the separation of the skin.

A following passage to the peeling machine that, by rubbing of the rollers at differentiated speed, removes the pellicle.

The green pistachios then go through a complex drying process at low speed and from this to an electronic selecting machine that rejects eventual pistachio of not the right color.

The product now dry (with a humidity of 4-5%) is wrapped up in cartons of 12,5 Kg.. The processing cycle is now concluded. In ambient fresh and dry the product preserves its color for several months, and then starts fading.

Pistacchio pelato in cartoni da 12,5 Kg pronto per l'esportazioneThat is why the Cooperatives and the exporters peel their pistachios only to order and don't keep stock of "peeled pistachio" as this, before being peeled, can be kept in cold store for over a year without loosing any of its peculiarities.

Two years of hard work and long wait have gone by, but the result is the precious pistachio of Bronte, emerald green in color and rich of unmistakable, perceptible qualities.

The intense green color of the cotyledons, the  elongated shape, the aromatic taste and the high content of unsaturated fat acids of the fruit, are not easily found in the product of other areas.

That determines a net preference towards product of American or Asian origin that presents, for the great part, roundish and yellow seeds, or not completely green and often yellowish, due to diverse climatic conditions, even if its price is always  lower respect to the brontese product.
 

The type of lava soil prevents the introduction of mechanization: the farmer's toil always prevails. Harvesting is also done manually with the use of sheets or nets spread at the foot of the plants and, in some cases, with upside-down umbrellas or with saddlebags hanging from the farmer's neck who, shaking the branch, makes the fruit fall inside.

RACCOLTA DEL PISTACCHIO DI BRONTESmallatura del pistacchio appena raccolto

 
PISTACHIOS / SURFACES AND PRODUCTION
AnniSiciliaItalia
haq.lihaq.li
2007
2008
2009
3.508
3.635
3.643
31.070
28.100
27.760
3.515
3.642
3.649
31.088
28.117
27.820

Fonte: elaborazioni su dati Istat

 
IMPORT EXPORT PISTACHIOS
(also shelled or peeled)
AnniImport

euro/Kg

Exporteuro/Kg
Quantityvalue Quantity value 
2008
2009
2010*
103.192
104.723
60.064
512.273
620.764
452.496
4,96
5,93
7,53
9.372
7.597
4.129
85.190
75.725
52.624
9,09
9,97
12,74

Quantità in Kg. dati cumulati - Valori in euro - *Gennaio - Luglio

Fonte: elaborazioni su dati Ismea

All of Bronte anxiously awaits, every two years, the month of September to gather the fruits of a long and tiring work. The harvest lasts about a month. And it is thirty days during which the Corso Umberto ("a chiazza") becomes literally deserted: everyone, young and old, students and employees, women and children, regardless of the heat, are in the "lochi" shaking the branches, gathering the precious fruit, "sgrollarlo" and lovingly drying it.
And the "sciare" of Bronte fill up, awaken from a long hibernation, come alive with festive people and become a place of songs and impressive tables.


DOP Bronte green pistachio  / Disciplinare di produzione (Production specification)

The typology of the land does not permit the use of any mecha­nization: prevails always the toil of the worker.
Even the picking is done by hand or with canvas and nets laid below the tree and in some cases  with sling-bags tied around the neck in which fall the fruits when the worker shakes the branches.
Much toil and so much good will is needed to pick up, with patience, one by one the small fruits which are di­spersed on the ground. To watch the picking of pista­chio is like going back in time, to notice the great con­trast, where from the sharp and black lava rises "ner­vous" but full of life the pistachio plant.

After being picked, the fruit must be immediately sepa­rated from the outer skin. This separation is done by mechanical rubbing with a simple and ingenious machi­ne consisting of a spiked roller and a piece of wire net­ting.

 

Once separated from the husk, the pistachios must dry for two or three days in the sun before being bagged and stored in a dark, dry place until they are sold. 


In Bronte the post-harvest cycle is traditional. After harvesting the fruits are husked and then laid out in the sun for 4-5 days to be dried. In some cases the “drying” process takes 2-3 days under tunnels covered with plastic materials.

Recent investigations conducted on samples of “Bianca di Bronte” fruits have shown that it is possible to proceed with the drying of the fruits in an alternative way to the traditional one, through the use of “mechanical” dryers in a current of hot air.

Pistacchio, essiccatoio meccanicoIt is important to underline that the drying temperatures adopted (40-50 °C) must not deviate excessively from those that the fruits can reach in natural drying conditions, in fact, temperatures close to 60 °C can cause alterations of chlorophyll, proteins, fatty acids, sterols and tocopherols. Analysis of “Bianca” fruits compared to “Larnaka” and “Kerman”, dried in the sun for 5 days and stored (12 and 18 months after harvest), highlighted, in favor of the “Bianca di Bronte” fruits, a higher content of total chlorophyll, 70% of which is represented by “chlorophyll A”.
This result represents the scientific confirmation of empirical observations on the chromatic peculiarities of the cotyledons of the Sicilian cultivar. It also seems appropriate to point out that the concentration of chlorophyll detected in the pistachios of the “Bianca di Bronte” remained almost constant even during the storage period. (Source Following Pistachio Footprints, November 2008)

Everybody in Bronte, in alternate years, waits anxiously for the month of September to reap the fruit of a long and hard work.

The harvest lasts about a month. And during these thirty days the Corso Umberto (“a chiazza”) becomes literally a desert; everybody, young and old, students and clerks, women and children, ignoring the stifling heat, are in the “lochi” to shake the branches and pick up the precious fruit, to remove the husk from it and let it dry up in the sun.

At this time Bronte’s stony fields come alive with people waking up from a long sleep, and becoming joyful and happy, singing and seatng at impressive spreads.

And then the party begins: the Bronte Green Pistachio Festival.


HOME PAGEPowered by DLC for Associazione Bronte Insieme -  Conditions for Navigation and Publication - Minimum Bibliography - Reproduction not permitted even if partial

 

Translated by Sam Di BellaITALIAN VERSION

   the Recipes